Samuel Gassmann X Maison Boivin - September 2016

nine-folds tie - Samuel Gassmann - silk painting
nine-folds tie - Samuel Gassmann - silk painting
Samuel Gassmann continues to explore the world of men’s accessories, extending his interest from cufflinks to that other characteristically male attribute, the tie. A knotty problem? Not for him. Though everywhere nowadays you will find patterned ties, in a range of colours, a variety of different materials, long, short, pointed end, square end, fat or thin, Samuel Gassmann decided to strip the tie back to its bare essentials: a length of midnight blue folded silk, to be precise. Weaving techniques used to vary the weave, volume and effect of the material are the source for his collection of five models. One for each of the categories that gave rise to the dress code for men (daytime, night-time, casual, formal, sports) that are echoed in the designs signed SG. On the inside of each tie, a tiny hand-painted design on the silk indicates the category to which it belongs. Another way of customising the ties is to have them initialled. A single colour, a single fabric and yet seldom has a tie been so extravagant. Each one requires 1.40m of silk and 9 folds. In today’s world, only that rare specimen, the Italian tie with its 7 folds, represents the ultimate, the must-have. Samuel Gassmann takes it up two notches and pushes the style even further out there: the blade and tail of the tie, which can sometimes reveal the interlining, are self-tipped so nothing is revealed. Luxury is all in the details, and the discretion. A commonplace, interchangeable accessory becomes a collector’s piece, handmade in France: the tie by Samuel Gassmann is quite another matter.